Ines de la Fressange in an oversized single or double-breasted blazer. Jane Birkin in a tailored, à la English-prep-inspired checked or solid blazer for polish, or Jane’s daughter Charlotte Gainsbourg in a casual, neutral hued, slightly oversized blazer. These French women, born in France or unofficially adopted by the country to be French (Birkin), show how timeless and effortless a blazer can be. Spanning generations, regardless of the decade, a blazer in our wardrobe never goes out of style.

Often called the ultimate go-to ‘third piece’ that we add to our wardrobe after we choose the pants and top, a blazer really does finish an outfit, makes it sing, and carries us throughout the seasons.

As someone who has worn blazers since my early twenties, I feel a bit more at ease when it comes to my style choices when I know I have blazers I love wearing and that work with my wardrobe in my closet. While I began wearing tailored, classic blazers, often to work as a teacher, I am now making sure I have oversized blazers in various fabrics to carry me through an entire year of varying temperatures.

With today’s post, Part Neuf(9) of our year-long wardrobe project, I have shared that we are working from a list compiled of items that will ‘fill the gaps’ in our current wardrobe, finish the wardrobe that speaks most honestly to who we are, how we live and who we want to project to the world.

We are not well into the second half of the year and hopefully have begun to see the few items we have added making a helpful difference and bringing an ease as well as enjoyment to getting dressed. If you are new to this series of posts, be sure to read Part Une to see the detailed list of how to get started and make your shopping list for the year.

But first! What did we talk about in the last part of this series – Part Seven? Have a look below at your homework assignment.

Part Seven Wardrobe Task

Look at the wardrobe you have that you already love and the pieces you will be adding with this year-long project. What types of belts would connect and elevate/finish each look? Which type of belts would be worn and preferred most often? Narrow your belt selection down to 1-3 belts, and then go shopping for them. Save them to KarmaNow, and if the price doesn't fit your budget right now, or you want to see if you can save money, keep an eye on it for a few months. This will also give you time to really consider which type of belts you need and want to wear.

Now, let’s learn how to shop for the blazers we need and want that will provide the versatility for oodles of different wardrobe options, working with the clothing we already have, or the few pieces we still need to add. Part Huit – exploring the versatility and style quotient of blazers.

Part Huit: Blazers— Sizing and Styling

What a blazer brings to our wardrobe options:

Immediately upon throwing on a blazer, the ‘dressed-up’ factor increases. Even if we’re wearing them with casual denim, or for that matter shorts, blazers have a magic all on their own to elevate a look. Think about it. During the Zoom period, while the pandemic kept us at homes, since all we could see was the waist up, if ever someone was wearing a blazer, regardless of whether it was layered over a tee or a blouse, the person looked more pulled together and professional.

Blazers have that power of elevation.

Our task is to figure out how to find the cut and size that flatters us each best. But first, let’s look at a least of precisely what a blazer adds to our style quotient:

• Definition in both silhouette(literal) and intention for what we are doing in the environment where we find ourselves (conceptual).
• The opportunity to play with proportions to accentuate our legs and/or behind (a cropped jacket), our waist and hips (a traditional, classic fit), or the illusion of slightness of frame (oversized).
• The optimal versatility item in any wardrobe giving us oodles of options as well as the ability to move from day to evening easily.
• Attitude projected based on style of blazer (generalized):
  • A modern, laid-back, confident attitude is exuded (oversized).
  • A youthful, confident projection (cropped)
  • A professional, intelligent, no nonsense attitude (classic)
  • A confident, grounded, yet self-confident attitude (double-breasted)

Did you notice the thread of confident and intelligent running through all of the attitudes a blazer seems to infuse the one wearing it with? This is all the more reason to make sure we have a few in our wardrobe because when in doubt, throw a blazer over it. Now we just need to have the right blazers for us in our closet.

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How to decide on the size and measurements to best fit you:

The shoulder is the priority of our focus.

The point on our shoulder where our arms falls is where we want the seam of the arm to begin. Whether with an oversized blazer or any other blazer, this sight-line is key because it begins the shape of the silhouette that will be projected.

Next, take your usual measurements, knowing where you want the bottom hem to fall:

• back width (from end of shoulder point to the other)
• back length (where do you want the blazer to fall to (waist, hips, mid-thigh, etc.)
• arm length from end of shoulder to wrist bone or base of thumb
  • Make sure to measure your arm when it is bent (90 degrees), as that will cause the sleeve to shorten, and measure from the outside (elbow side) not the interior of the arm (closest to the body). The sleeve length is the easiest to tailor/customize, so err on the side of too long.
• waist
• bust
• diameter of arm (upper)

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Types of Blazers to Consider

• Oversized:
  • If you are wanting an oversized look, find a blazer that hits between mid-hip and mid-thigh. This will make a statement, clearly communicating your intention to create a look of more casual, yet still chic.
  • If you are buying a standard-size blazer, you may be able to make it oversized by sizing up two or three sizes. The key is to take the measurements and see where the hem of the bottom of the blazer will fall from the back to your legs.
  • While the shoulders will have room to wiggle, the seam still should not fall far down the point of where the shoulder meets the arm. In other words, if you want a broader shoulder, make sure the shoulder stays upright and does not slide down the arm.
  • The cuff should hit at least your wrist bone, but no more than at the base of your thumb. Since you will likely be pushing up the sleeves, you have wiggle room here.
  • With all blazers, check out the collar sits when the blazer is worn. Does it rest easily on the back of your neck? It should stick up or look as though it is floating which can happen if the blazer is too oversized.
• Cropped
  • The bottom of the jacket should fall right where the natural waist is and where your legs begin.
  • The arms should not bind or be tight
  • The length of the sleeves will want to be full to the wristbone or base of the thumb as this will keep balance in the proportions. Short sleeves will make the jacket look shrunken and ill-fitting.
  • If you have a larger frame, opt for a slightly larger jacket so it doesn’t look shrunken as it already is a short jacket.
  • For petite frames, take the cropped design seriously and perhaps even opt for extra cropped as you don’t want your figure to be overwhelmed by a large jacket that is too voluminous or hits to low down on the hips. It should meet your natural waist.
• Traditional/Tailored
  • The key is to get the shoulder width right. Regardless of the size of the blazer, look at the measurements and make sure the back (from shoulder to shoulder) will hit at the ends (and no further) of your shoulders. This is the hardest part for a tailor to alter, so get this right, and the rest can be easily tailored to fit you.
• Is a double-breasted blazer right for you?
  • Most of us won’t button up a double-breasted blazer if it is for our everyday, but if we did, what it does is add an illusion of a waist while at the same time adding bulk.
  • While petite, full-bust, and apple shapes may not want this style, I have seen it worn very well on petite frames when they opt for an oversized look and leave it unbuttoned. It adds a touch of formality with the multiple buttons, overwhelms the frame on purpose to accentuate the petite frame and still looks commanding.
  • If you have an athletic build (i.e. straight up and down – not much waist definition even if flat and fit), are tall and lean or have a slender waist, the double-breasted would suit you well as it creates or accentuates the waist depending on your build.

ALSO! One detail that is not to be forgotten is whether you want a button close or not. Some blazers do not come with a button(s) to close should you want to. For myself, I need a button, and when I purchased a blazer years ago that didn’t, I quickly realized I wanted one. I need to be able to close it if walking outside and it’s cold or it’s windy wherever I find myself, etc. Having the option is nice to have. A minor detail that often is left off cheaper or discounted blazers, so remember to check and make sure before purchasing.

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Styling Ideas:

• Push or roll the sleeves up.
  • Especially with oversized blazers, by doing this, you won’t ‘drown’ in your blazer, and you can even add a peek of the long-sleeve top you are wearing underneath for additional style (a striped shirt or a silk or cotton blouse in a constrasting color to the blazer, or if in the same color, the constrasting texture will add a wonderful layer of interest to the eye.
  • Do this as well with tailored or fitted blazers.
    • It provides a balance to the serious ‘vibe’ that a tailored look can bring. But you don’t lose your professional look.
  • Use a sleeve garter or large elastic hair tie to hold your sleeves up. The color doesn’t matter because they will be covered by how you style them. This IG Reel shares how to style the sleeves for a variety of different types of blazer sleeves quite well.
    • Options for shopping for sleeve garters:
      • Here
      • I would just use a large elastic hairband, such as these
  • Sometimes designers will create blazers with the sleeves already ruched up with stitching. However, having the option to wear them full length is something you may want. Now you know you can give yourself the option.
• If you have narrow shoulders and would like to create volume, shop for blazers with shoulder pads.
• If you already have broad shoulders (triangle or pear-shaped individuals – moi!), then forgo the shoulder padding as your shoulders, when wearing a blazer, will already provide the structure and strong shape.
• Clothing options to pair with:
  • With a traditional suit (skirt or pants).
  • Over any top, just make sure there is room to move comfortably with the layer of the blouse, sweater or camisole underneath (not constricting to movement)
    • turtlenecks look fabulous in cooler weather
    • tees create the true high and low look
    • button-down shirts – a classic, timeless option
    • camisoles for a dressed-up or more formal look
  • With any type of pant, jean, etc.
  • With a skirt and belted at the waist if desired.
  • With shorts of any length just make sure you can still see the hem of the short (the blazer does overrun it). Otherwise, every length works just as it would with a pair of trousers.
  • Any shoe based on what the outfit the blazer is paired with calls for.

As you can see, blazers work with just about anything, and that is why having what we love on hand in our closet will gives us so many wonderful options.

The Blazer I Recently Added to My Wardrobe

The French clothing brand Mister.k is quickly becoming a favorite go-to for my wardrobe essentials and that includes blazers. In fact, especially blazers so I thought this month’s part of this Signature Style series would be perfect as we are also celebrating French Week.

Earlier this summer I purchased their linen oversized blazer (Marcel, they have many different styles of blazers), and I am quite happy with it. You can see me wearing it below paired with jeans and a white boatneck cotton tank.

While the Marcel blazer isn’t available in linen any longer, they do have it in crepe (navy and black) – look here (see below).

More blazers from Mister.k

What blazers I have, love, and one more I am looking to add:

The blazers I wore for years while I was teaching were from Theory, their Etienne. It has a slightly longer body, but still a tailored look. I still will wear them from time to time, and highly recommend them for a mid-luxury option. The sleeves were a bit too short for me, but I made them work as I paid a pretty price for it, and the lining and design were well made. At that point in my shopping experience, I didn’t know where to go for long enough sleeves, so I worked with my budget and did my best.

Currently, my choice of blazer is oversized. I have two linen (navy and taupe, the latter from LinenFox which you can customize for your size), and one wool blazer found at a consignment shop. I am looking to add a navy crepe blazer soon, and since the Marcel fit so well from Mister.k (shared above), that is what I likely will welcome into my wardrobe.

Let’s go shopping for blazers

Below is a list of brands to consider when it comes to the trusted quality of blazers. And in all honesty, most brands (if they offer a full wardrobe range) will offer blazers. The key is to always look at the measurements. Once you know what color, fabric, lining (or no lining), finishing details (buttons, etc.), then that will help you decide where you purchase your blazers from.

Beyond buying a new blazer, as shared above, keep your eyes peeled at consignment shops, yard sales and other second-hand clothing shops. So long as the fit works on your figure and you like the material, then you’ve found yourself a wonderful new addition at likely great savings.

Luxury

• Nili Lotan
• Brunello Cucinelli
• The Row
• Yves Saint Laurent
• Holland Cooper (UK)
• Balmain
• Ralph Lauren

Mid-Luxury

• Veronica Beard’s Dickie jackets (many different colors and single or double-breasted), often the sleeves are already tailored pushed up.
• Rag & Bone
• The Frankie Shop
• Ralph Lauren, Polo line
• L’Agence
• Theory

Budget-friendly, yet worthwhile for dependability

• Ann Taylor
• J.Crew
• Quince
• Banana Republic

The Series Continues! And A Task for You!

The series, How to Build a Wardrobe to Love and Live In Every Day, continues with Part Neuf/Nine next month on Tuesday, September 8th, when we will talk all about layering tops, tees, and more.

But between now and then,

• First, collect your measurements:
  • arms length to wrist bone or where you want it to fall to
  • shoulder to shoulder (i.e., horizontal back width)
  • back length to where you want the blazer to hit at the bottom
  • bust
  • waist
• Determine which type of blazers you prefer: oversized, traditional, cropped, double-breasted, etc.
  • Maybe you want different styles based on the outfits you enjoy wearing – solidify this for your needs and style.
• Examine your wardrobe needs for cold and warm weather so you are shopping for various types of fabrics and will always have a blazer to wear year-round, even if it is a different one.
• Start shopping at the sites mentioned above or at your favorite shops, and add to your list based on what would complement what you already have or will be adding to give you versatility and make you feel your best.
  • if shopping oneline, save to KarmaNow so you will be alerted when the items go on sale.

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